Kagura is theatre for the gods: dance, drums, flutes and masks that tell ancient Japanese myths. In the Iwami region it has become a spectacle. Hamada alone has more than 50 Kagura troupes, the whole region more than 130.
Orochi: the battle with the giant serpent
The best-known piece is called “Orochi”. The god Susanoo fights an eight-headed giant serpent that devours a girl every year. On stage, several serpents writhe at once, each several metres long, with glowing eyes, smoke and sparks.
The serpent bodies are a Hamada invention. At the end of the Meiji era, Ueda Kikuichi built them on the model of the paper lanterns made in the Nagahama district: a bamboo frame covered with Sekishu washi. This lets them contract and stretch like a living animal.
Masks made of paper
The masks, too, are made of Sekishu washi, Hamada’s handmade paper. These Nagahama masks have been made since around 1884 and are light yet very durable, which matters in dances that often last an hour or more.
Where the rhythm comes from
Around 1884, a scholar and a priest in Hamada revised the texts, dance and music of Kagura. Troupes that perform this fast, rousing style are called “Hachi-chōshi”, eight-beat. That is where the tempo comes from that sets Iwami Kagura apart from the calmer forms elsewhere in Japan.
Where to see Kagura
Kagura is performed at autumn shrine festivals, events and competitions, many of them free. Hamada also has regular evening performances, traditionally on Saturdays at Sannomiya Shrine in the town centre. Dates vary by season.
The photo above is from a performance of “Orochi” by the Okami Shinyūza troupe (岡見神遊座) in Misumi, Hamada, on 12 September 2026. Taken from the seat behind the pillar, live and unretouched.
When is the next performance?
Ask me for current dates, directions and what to expect on site, in German or English.
Sources: Hamada Tourism Association – Iwami Kagura (PDF, Japanese) · Walkerplus – performances at Sannomiya Shrine (Japanese)